Andamans Part 3

Sunday 24^th

Another 4.45 start so we could try for the woodpigeon again. We went to a different forest this time and walked along the main road. One tree was a regular hangout for parrots and pigeons but not the one we wanted. There was the usual smattering of other endemics including an Andaman Serpent-Eagle.

We drove to the entrance of the biological park and feeding on the wall in front of us was a Chinese Blackbird that had been found the day before – the second record for the Andamans. It actually started a small twitch and several other Indian birders were there looking for it. We saw it a number of times as it feed around the car park. 

Chinese Blackbird - an Indian mega-rarity

Indian twitchers searching for the Chinese Blackbird

Found it!

There was also a Crested Serpent-Eagle that was on the ground which had caught a frog. A couple of Five-striped Squirrels became our first and only mammal of the trip.

Crested Serpent-Eagle

Red-whiskered Bulbul

Dollarbird

Long-tailed Parakeet

Short-crested Bay Island Forest Lizard

We stopped for breakfast then visited another bit of forest and as we walked back a pigeon flew over and landed on a tree in front of us – it was the Andaman Woodpigeon (Endemic #19), our last target endemic. It stayed for half a minute then flew off and disappeared into the forest. We considered ourselves very lucky as many birders miss it.

Andaman Woodpigeon

A Large Cuckooshrike was also seen and a Brown-backed Needletail flew over a forest clearing. We made a brief stop by the beach on the way back for a few coastal waders.

Common Sandpiper

In the afternoon we went out at 14.45 and stopped by a marsh with a warning about crocodiles for another attempt at Slaty-breasted Rail. Two individuals called but refused to break cover. 

Stork-billed Kingfisher

At the next wetland there was a Marsh Sandpiper and another calling rail. A flock of 21 Whimbrel flew in. We tried to find yesterday’s bunting again but couldn’t locate it with the flock of Eastern Yellow Wagtails. We had an evening off from owling so headed straight back to the hotel.

Monday 25^th

A slightly later start at 5am with the aim of trying to secure more views of the woodpigeon at the same spot as yesterday. Before then we tried the forest around the biological park where we saw some of the now familiar endemics. India’s number 2 lister was there having just flown in from Delhi to look for the Chinese Blackbird. It was still present but we didn’t spend time looking for it. An Andaman Coucal was feeding on the road and perching on the crash barrier giving exceptional views.

Andaman Coucal

We had breakfast at the café opposite the beach where a variety of birds landed on the wires to have their photographs taken. 

Stork-billed Kingfisher

Indian Magpie-Robin

Red Collared Dove

We went back into the forest but there was no sign of the woodpigeon. However, we ran into a large feeding flock that had come into a fruiting tree and got better views and pictures of some of them. We headed back to the hotel for lunch during which there was a short heavy downpour for the second day in a row but it soon cleared up.

Scarlet Minivet

Freckle-breasted Woodpecker (female)

Freckle-breasted Woodpecker (male)

Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters

Green Imperial Pigeon

Andaman Clipper

The afternoon session was our last with Shakti as he had another group to lead from tomorrow. We met up again at 14.45 and visited a new wetland area. In the marsh around the lake there were at least 140 Grey-headed Swamphens and a couple of Chinese Pond-Herons. In the water was our first Water Monitor of the trip and feeding in a little channel was a Blue-eared Kingfisher.

Blue-eared Kingfisher

Chinese Pond-Heron

Water Monitor

We carried on down the road to look for the bunting again but failed to see it, however we did get a couple of Richard’s Pipits in the grassland. Out in the marshes a Black Drongo was another new trip bird as was a Watercock that was seen in flight for two seconds. 

Whiskered Tern

We tried calling out warblers and got responses from Oriental Reed and Pallas’s Grasshopper Warblers but the latter remained hidden. In amongst the Barn Swallows hawking over the grassland was a single Eastern Red-rumped Swallow. As dusk fell some ominous dark clouds appeared as we walked back to the van but they just missed us.

Tuesday 26^th

Overnight a storm came in and thunder rumbled overhead. Our new guide collected us at 5.40 in the pouring rain and we drove down to the ferry for the crossing over the bay. On the way we were briefly held up by a tree that had come down across the road. 

Pacific Reef-Heron on the rain-soaked jetty

We stopped for coffee and even the cows were sheltering from the rain. 

Too wet for cows

We drove to the forest, parked up and waited in the car for the Andaman Crakes to cross the track. After a few minutes two scuttled across too quickly for photos. While we ate our packed breakfast a couple of White-breasted Waterhens slowly ambled across and eventually another crake appeared and slowly walked across the track.

Andaman Crake

White-breasted Waterhen

We moved on to the Slaty-breasted Rail but apart from one short call it wasn’t interested in responding. We tried another site but no one appeared to be home. With the heavy rain coming and going we headed back to the hotel. I had to check out and move to the hotel just up the road (Eastern Gate) which ended up being a much nicer place although the Lemon Tree was perfectly acceptable.

After lunch back at the Lemon Tree we met up again at 2.45 by which time the rain had subsided. We tried a few different sites as well as some of the same ones. Yet again Slaty-breasted Rail called back without breaking cover. We did see a couple of new birds for the trip: Japanese Sparrowhawk and Grey-headed Lapwing.

Japanese Sparrowhawk

Coffee shop

After a dusk coffee stop we went back to the first owl place to try and get better photos of the Hume’s Boobook. We had great views, including a pair sat together on a branch.

Hume's Boobook

The bright lights of Port Blair

Wednesday 27^th.

Our last day. We met at 5.40 and drove the short distance to the forest around the biological station area and spent the morning there. We managed better views of quite a few birds that we’d already seen such as Andaman Shama, Black-naped Monarch, Andaman Bulbul and White-headed Starling. 

Scarlet Minivet

White-headed Starling

Andaman Bulbul

Andaman Shama

Black-naped Monarch

There were even reptiles with several Andaman Day Geckos, a well camouflaged Andaman Great Gecko and a Keelback snake that was sunbathing on the road.

Andaman Day Gecko

Keelback Snake

Andaman Great Gecko

Small Leopard

Tim in action... Neil inaction, while our guide looks on

Sandy beach, this area is popular with locals and tourists

We had our usual packed breakfast (although most of the sandwiches were fed to the local dogs) and an additional freshly cooked omelette. 

Sandwich disposal

There was a lot of bird activity this morning, possibly because it rained so much yesterday. Small and Scarlet Minivets dazzled in the treetops, a couple of Vernal Hanging Parrots hung around in some close trees while the Crested Serpent-Eagle continued scanning for prey from an open branch.

Crested Serpent-Eagle

Vernal Hanging-Parrot

Large Cuckooshrike

Ornate Sunbird

Andaman Drongo

Asian Brown Flycatcher was seen while Asian Paradise-Flycatcher was just heard calling, both being new trip birds. A couple of chickens were joined by an obliging Asian Emerald Dove feeding on the ground by a roadside cafe. Two more new birds were seen before it was time to head back: Indian and Violet Cuckoos.

Asian Emerald Dove

Indian Cuckoo

Violet Cuckoo

Cows resting on a traffic island. They get priority over all traffic, next are dogs, trucks & buses, cars, tuc-tucs, motorbikes, with people at the bottom of the pile. Goats make their own rules up.

Still napping

View over the airport from my hotel room

We went out at 3pm for our last birding adventure and revisited some of the wetland areas. We tried again for Slaty-breasted Rail but we didn’t even hear any calling this afternoon. There were still some other birds to see: White-bellied Sea-Eagle flew over, Yellow Bittern hunted around the reed edges and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters hawked overhead. We also saw two new trip birds – Common Kingfisher and Coot. A cuckoo was called as several different species before we decided to leave its identity unproven for now, perhaps closer examination of the photos may reveal its identity.

Coot

Eastern Jungle Crow on post, House Crows bathing

Yellow Bittern

All too soon dusk had descended and it was time to head back to our hotels and meet later for our last civilised evening meal together. The group trip list was 133 species, out of which 22 were new birds for me.

Thursday 28th-Friday 29th

There was time for breakfast before we were picked up and driven the short distance to the airport. We were soon checked in and this time our luggage was to be transferred for us at Delhi. The first flight soon touched down in Delhi where the smog had abated somewhat and we could see Black Kites instead of murk! 

We now had an 11 hour wait until our next flight so made ourselves as comfortable as possible and found things to do. We had a couple of meals before we were allowed to enter the departure gates. Eventually it was time to board and our flight home took off on time at 02.35 on Friday morning and we landed at Heathrow at 06.25. With the Elizabeth Line now running I had a much easier journey home. 

Andamans Part 2

Thursday 21^st

Our 5.40 pick up had become standard now and we drove to a new area, pausing briefly for a flock of Daurian Starlings. In this patch of forest we added Small Minivet and Black-naped Monarch as well as getting better views of Andaman Shama. In a feeding flock there were plenty of Andaman Drongos and a few Andaman Treepies (Endemic #14) while in the distance there was a perched Andaman Serpent-Eagle (Endemic #15).

Andaman Woodpecker

Andaman Serpent-Eagle

Vernal Hanging-Parrot and Parakeet

The hotel had forgotten to provide packed breakfasts so we stopped for a much nicer hot breakfast in a little roadside café opposite the beach. While we were there a White-bellied Sea-Eagle soared over the bay.

White-bellied Sea-Eagle

We tried another marsh where a regular Amur Stonechat was still present and there was also a Dollarbird and the daily Brown Shrike. On the way back our driver found us a bright green Andaman Day Gecko.

Andaman Day Gecko

Forest flowers

After downtime and lunch we headed back out for the afternoon session, visiting a different wetland area. 

One of the hazards that make driving in India challenging - cows on the road

A mud and rubbish filled swamp held several waders including Wood and Curlew Sandpiper, Pacific Goldies and Pintail Snipe. We managed to find a Red-throated Pipit on the deck with several more Eastern Yellow Wagtails.

Scarlet Skimmer

Pintail Snipe feeding in a rubbish strewn swamp

Blue-tailed Bee-eaters

Grey-headed Swamphen

Both Yellow and Black Bitterns were added to the heron list and we also had our first terns of the trip with a small flock of Whiskered Terns hunting over the back lake. Two Jungle Crows flew over before it was time to go and stake out the next owl.

Black Bittern

White-throated Kingfisher

We parked up at the back of a school and waited for it to get dark and then an Andaman Masked Owl (Endemic #16) appeared on a ledge and remained perched there while we took our photos.

Andaman Masked Owl

Friday 22^nd

Out again at 5.40 to the ferry. While we waited a few Pied Imperial Pigeons flew over the harbour to join a small roosting flock. After the short ferry crossing we stopped at a small lake where a single Eurasian Wigeon had appeared with a flock of Cotton Pygmy-Geese. A flyover raptor turned into our only Oriental Honey-Buzzard of the trip. We visited the same patch of forest as on our first morning.

Apart from a similar selection of birds we also saw a Mangrove Whistler, two Black Bazas and a large mixed flock of Andaman Treepies and Drongos. An obliging Andaman Cuckooshrike that loosely associated with this flock was new for those who missed the one earlier in the week. 

Andaman Cuckooshrike

After our packed breakfast we were whisked back down the road to the mangroves where a Ruddy Kingfisher had been located. Initially it was quite hard getting a view of it but we eventually got a clear view of it.

Ruddy Kingfisher

We drove on to the wetland area we visited on Wednesday. This time our luck was in and there was no human disturbance so we quickly found a group of Andaman Teal (Endemic #17). On the opposite lake a couple of Oriental Pratincoles sat on the mud. In the whole area we also saw Cinnamon and Yellow Bitterns and walking back I found a Dusky Warbler that decided to show itself.

Oriental Pratincoles

White-bellied Sea-Eagle

Andaman Teal

Grey-headed Swamphen

Brown Shrike

At the next wetland spot there was Chinese Pond-Heron, Purple Heron and Pheasant-tailed Jacana. We drove back to the hotel for lunch, seeing an Oriental Garden Lizard, appropriately enough in the hotel garden.

Oriental Garden Lizard

In the afternoon we left at 15.30 and went to the same rubbish-filled swamp as yesterday but there were no additional waders. We made a brief roadside stop for a flock of White-rumped Munias in a garden and stopped for coffee by the beach. Oddly enough there was what looked like a WW2 pillbox there. A few Pacific Reef-Egrets flew past and a Tibetan Sandplover was roosting on a near rock.

White-rumped Munia

2 Little Egrets = 1 Great Egret

Great Egret

Egret Fest: Medium, 2 Littles and Great

We drove a short distance to a scrubby area and barely had to wait for any length of time before an obliging Andaman Nightjar (Endemic #18) was watched perched in a tree. This was the last ‘easy’ endemic to see with only the Woodpigeon remaining so it only taken us four days to mop up. 

Andaman Nightjar

Saturday 23^rd

An even earlier start as we wanted to get to a further forest at dawn so we left the hotel at 4.45. It was light by the time we got there and we slowly walked down the road scanning both sides of the forest for the mythical Andaman Woodpigeon. We saw a few similar looking Green Imperial Pigeons fly over but there was no sign of our quarry.

After another uninspiring packed breakfast there were a few more birds around and we saw Scarlet Minivet, Andaman Cuckoo-Dove, Drongo & Treepie. Flyovers included our first Forest Wagtail of the trip and a handful of Hill Mynas. With no sign of the woodpigeon we went back to some of the wetlands we’d already visited.

On the first lake there was a large flock of Andaman Teal where we’d seen none on previous visits. A quick count got up to 148 – there were a few obvious fairly plain juveniles and a mix of adults from those with just a white eye-ring to some having an almost entire white head.

Andaman Teal

Slender Skimmer

Yellow-striped Flutterer

We were looking for a Red-necked Stint that was known to be in the area but couldn’t find that either, however we did add Broad-billed Sandpiper and Temminck’s Stint to the trip list. There was the usual selection of Pintail & Common Snipe, Redshank, Wood & Curlew Sands and a few Long-toed Stints. We returned to the hotel late morning.

Striated Heron

Wood Sandpiper

Common Redshank

In the afternoon we went out at 2.45pm and headed to some different wetlands. A juvenile Purple Heron was on one marsh and a Yellow Bittern was on another with a massed flock of 78 Grey-headed Swamphens. Three Whiskered Terns hawked over the water and a distant Stork-billed Kingfisher was seen through the scope. 

Grey Pansy

Whiskered Tern

We wandered over some grassland where a drove of pigs was being rounded up by a guy on a motorbike. Unfortunately they flushed a bunting that our guide had just found. We tried to lure a Slaty-breasted Rail out from the marsh but it wasn’t interested.

Eastern Yellow Wagtail

House Crow

As dusk was approaching we drove the short distance to our owl spot. On arrival it was calling but we had other business first and were soon watching a superb Orange-headed Thrush feeding out in the open. 

Orange-headed Thrush

The owl wasn’t so obliging and remained hidden in a dense clump of leaves while calling. It flew over the road but immediately hid again. Luckily one of our eagle-eyed drivers had managed to locate another one and we were soon enjoying great views of an Oriental Scops-Owl. This is the resident race so may be split into a separate species in the future for yet another Andaman endemic.

Oriental Scops-Owl