Saturday, April 4, 2026

Bhutan Part 1

Saturday 14th March

I booked on a Birdfinders trip to Bhutan, a small kingdom nestled in the Himalayas between NE India and Tibet. Due to the recent activities in the Middle East, our plans to fly via Qatar had been scuppered. Fortunately Birdfinders were on the case and their travel agents booked us a new route, although it did mean flying out a day earlier. We all met at Heathrow T4 for the overnight Malaysian Airlines flight to Kuala Lumpur departing at 21.25, but one of our party had to be rebooked on an alternative route due to visa issues.

Sunday 15th March

We landed at KL the following evening, with just enough daylight left to see a few birds from the terminal before boarding the 21.35 flight to Kolkata. It landed in India at 23.10 and we were soon through immigration and picked up our bags, apart from one which had failed to arrive. We jumped in a taxi for the short journey to our airport hotel for a much needed, albeit short, sleep.

Monday 16th March

We had to be up early and I had asked reception to provide packed breakfast for us as we had to leave before breakfast started, however like all the packed breakfasts I've had in India it was barely edible. We got a couple of taxis back to the airport and checked in for our flight to Paro in Bhutan.

Leaving Kolkata

Approach to Paro through the mountains

Mountainside buildings


The final approach was rather hair-raising once we dipped below the clouds as we flew low through a valley with what seemed barely a wing’s length space to the mountainside. Arrived in Bhutan on time at 10am and stepped into bright sunshine and it felt much warmer than the actual temperature of 8 degrees. The airport was beautifully ornate, even the luggage carousels and we whisked through immigration and waited for our luggage, taking the opportunity to buy some local currency.

Even the luggage carousels were ornate and housed a model Dzong


We met our guide outside and waiting for us was our missing colleague who had to bypass India and take a flight via Bangkok. We were soon on our way and barely drove a mile outside the airport before stopping by the Paro River. 

Ibisbill winter along this stretch of river

Feral Pigeon made into our Bhutan list as our first bird seen but a few minutes later the quality ramped up as our target bird was found – Ibisbill. This was a key bird for many of the group and although I’d seen them several times before it’s always a special bird to see. Some of the birds here are resident breeders while some breed high up in the Himalayas and winter at lower elevations. We saw three birds here. There was also a variety of Redstarts seen with White-capped, Plumbeous and Hodgson’s, the latter being my only new bird today.



Ibisbill

Plumbeous Redstart (male)

Plumbeous Redstart (female)

Joining the waterbirds were several White Wagtails of two different races, Common Sandpiper and a Brown Dipper that shot past and then showed distantly. A flock of about 150 Plain Mountain-Finch flew over, a Rosy Pipit fed with the wagtails and a few Russet Sparrows perched in bushes or on overhead wires.

White Wagtail

White-capped Redstart

Paro Dzong - more on Dzongs in the next blog

Bridge to the Dzong

We drove into town and had lunch at a nice restaurant before carrying on and making another riverside stop. 

The main drag in Paro with typical buildings

Paro River

Here were six Ruddy Shelducks and a few other ducks as well as another Ibisbill. However, our main quarry was in the rocky hill on the other side of the path. Our driver was first to spot it – a Wallcreeper, another breeding bird of high elevations that winters down lower. We had prolonged views of one, a female and a bit further along was another pair.



Wallcreeper

Birds appeared all around us with River Lapwings on the shingle bed in the river, our first Oriental Turtle Dove roosting in a tree by the path, Hodgson’s Redstarts on top of the hillside, Rufous-breasted Accentor on the hill and the first of three Hoopoes sat on a pile of felled trees.

Grey-backed Shrike

Hodgson's Redstart

Hoopoe

River Lapwing

We drove further along by the river, pausing to get everyone on to a Great Cormorant roosting up on the hillside when someone spotted a Goral higher up. We all bundled out of the bus to watch it and a minute later someone else found a Himalayan Black Bear on the same hillside! It was very fortuitous that we had stopped for the Cormorant otherwise we would have missed both mammals.

Goral


Himalayan Black Bear

Our hotel was an hour’s drive away and we had time to relax before the log and dinner with plans made for an early start the following morning.

Wednesday, December 31, 2025

December birding

Having just returned from India, there was no gentle transition from autumn to winter and it remained relatively cold throughout the month, just dipping to below freezing on the penultimate night of the year. It also got cold on the Continent too, just what's needed to bring wildfowl across the North Sea. Just before Xmas there was a big influx of geese and some swans into the country and London saw its fair share although only White-fronted Geese stayed long enough to be seen by many.

Rainham Marshes

It was fairly quiet here for the first three weeks until the White-fronts began to arrive. I spent one morning searching Wennington Marshes hoping to find some without joy and then two flocks turned up there the following day although they soon moved on. Luckily the family party of three returned the next day and I was able to catch up with them - my first ones at Rainham.

3 White-fronted Geese with two Canadas

I only visited Rainham seven times this month. Aside from the White-fronts, the other highlight was a large influx of Avocets after Xmas. An initial count of 80 on the 27th equalled the site record but more arrived and we ended up with a total of 98. Even this was eclipsed two days later when Hawky counted 111 in Aveley Bay, a record count for the London Area.

Ingrebourne Valley

As I still hadn't seen Red-legged Partridge in London this year I decided to make one final effort to track them down. It ended up being really easy and I found a small covey in a field within ten minutes of getting off the bus.

Red-legged Partridge

Dagenham Chase

My third new bird this month was Woodcock which was also a patchtick. I'd failed to find them here last winter but following up a report of one early in the month I managed to locate one in the same place.

With all the rain we've had recently The Slack started to fill up again, having been dry for about six months. It's still well below its normal water level but it was enough to attract a decent size flock of Lapwings though the regular over-wintering Wigeon haven't returned and must have gone elsewhere. It has been attracting a good number of gulls so we're hoping something more unusual might drop in this winter.

The Slack

There's been a lot of publicity about the planned 'reintroduction' of White Stork and Beaver to Dagenham Chase which is due to start next year. My view is that neither species is a reintroduction as there's no evidence that they've ever bred in London before and it's just an expensive vanity project. The plan is to build a large aviary (just in front of the film studios you can see in the above photo) for the Storks but it's unclear if it will have a roof. We'll have to wait and see how it unfolds next year.

Other sites

My local parks and even Beam Valley were pretty quiet this month so I decided to visit a new park, one I'd been meaning to visit for a while - Raphael Park in Romford. Interestingly it's pronounced 'ray-full' rather than 'raf-ay-el' as you might expect. Wikipedia states that the park is named after a former local MP so presumably that's how his name was pronounced.

It's an easy journey for me, being on the 174 bus route with its own bus stop right by the entrance.


The lake starts at the main entrance and the path heads north along the lake to the end where there is a small wood and out into an open area. There's a cafe here and the return route is either along the same path or one along the eastern border which then drops down to the lake at several places.

The usual wildfowl that you'd expect on a London park lake are here: Mute Swan, Canada, Greylag and Egyptian Geese plus Mallard, Tufted Duck, Moorhen and Coot but there were also a couple of Little Egret roosting in the willows at the back of the lake. I also heard Nuthatch calling in the woodland and finished my visit on 33 species which I thought was pretty good for a winter visit.


Lake with ubiquitous Canada Geese and Feral Pigeons

The woodland track

Little Egret

Tufted Duck

Back at the entrance I crossed over the road to another new park - Lodge Farm Park. I did a loop which didn't take very long but it's possible to walk to the southern end of the park and then on to Romford Station. There's no water here so there's far fewer birds and I only recorded eight species.


There's a lot of mistletoe on this tree!

I finished my London eBird year list on 178 species; I'd not managed to achieve 170 before but had come close so am quite pleased with the effort I put in.


There were typically a few obvious birds I missed during the year: Brent Goose turned up a number of times at Rainham on days I'd gone elsewhere; there was a Red-breasted Merganser on KGV Res but I didn't really have time to go for it; I missed Turnstone and Little Stint at Rainham and the autumn wader passage was particularly poor this year; there was also Kittiwake and Little Tern on the river at Rainham but not when I was there; there were no Short-eared Owls in the 2nd winter period and I didn't get one earlier in the year; I missed the Hoopoe at Rainham when I was searching a nearby spot for it; I didn't go for the Wryneck at Chingford but should have done as it stayed for nearly a week; I dipped the Red-backed Shrike at Tylers Common which just disappeared before I arrived; there was no Marsh Tit available this year; and I didn't connect with Woodlark, Ring Ouzel or Hawfinch when vis-migging in autumn.

With a bit more luck and a better autumn passage I ought to be able to break 180 so will give it a go another year.

Sunday, December 7, 2025

India Part 5

Thursday 27th

We did some pre-breakfast birding along the road just down from the hotel where the star birds were Painted Bush-quail, Nilgiri Blue Robin and Nilgiri Laughingthrush. 

Painted Bush Quail

Nilgiri Blue Robin

Nilgiri Laughingthrush

Hill Swallow

Indian Blackbird

Looking back up at our hotel

Three-striped Palm Squirrel


We checked out after breakfast and drove to the next National Park where we had a short stop. 




Viewpoint overlooking Ooty


Gaur, a wild cattle
Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher

We continued, adding a roadside Crested Goshawk and entered Mudumalai Tiger Reserve.

Crested Goshawk

Painted Stork

 



Some of the Indian tiger reserves are completely free of human habitation but this one has a small town and main road in it so people are regularly walking around where Tigers might be and we had heard that a Tiger had killed a local woman just two days earlier. We checked into the Jungle Hut camp inside the reserve which was the best located place we ended up staying in.

Black-rumped Flameback

Oriental Magpie-Robin

Red-vented Bulbul

White-bellied Drongo

In the afternoon we went on a jeep safari deeper into the reserve. There were plenty of Spotted Deer, the Tigers’ favourite prey and a single Black Buck. We didn’t expect to see any cats but there are plenty of other mammals including Asian Elephant and we were just on our way to see a group when our guide shouted ‘Tiger’ and we screeched to a halt. Not more than 20 metres away a Tiger was slowly making its way through the grass; we had a fabulous view of it for a minute before it wandered into taller vegetation and disappeared. Although I had seen them before on a previous visit to India, it’s always a treat to see such an amazing cat and the Elephants we paused for on the way back barely registered.

Blackbuck

Spotted Deer

Bay-backed Shrike

Grey Junglefowl

Red-wattled Lapwing




Friday 28th

We had a full day in Mudumalai NP, some of it in the camp and the rest driving around. We started with a pre-breakfast drive, stopping for a Spotted Owlet before picking up a local guide and going for a walk around an abandoned resort. When the reserve was created, some resorts were closed and it’s illegal to build new or demolish old buildings.

Spotted Owlet

Abandoned camp

Among the birds we encountered on our walk were Jerdon’s Bushlark, Malabar Lark and Indian Nuthatch. 

Indian Robin

Malabar Lark

Pied Cuckoo

Red-breasted Flycatcher

Streak-throated Woodpecker

Tawny Pipit

After a hearty breakfast, we went out again and had a bit of a raptor fest with Red-headed, White-rumped and Indian Vultures, Great Spotted and Bonelli’s Eagles as well as Shikra and the usual Black Kites. It was good to see the vultures doing so well here as India has lost 99% of their vulture population in the last twenty odd years due to feeding on dead cattle that had been given an antibiotic drug that ended up killing the vultures.



Asian Brown Flycatcher

Indian Vulture (centre)

White-rumped Vultures

Bonelli's Eagle

Red-headed Vulture

We also saw Blue-faced Malkoha and a very obliging Indian Pitta. 


Indian Pitta

Indian Pond-Heron

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher


Yellow-billed Babbler

Purple Sunbird


We had some down time either side of lunch back at the camp so did our own thing and ended up finding another Indian Pitta.


Bronzed Drongo


Greenish Warbler

Red-vented Bulbul

White-bellied Drongo

Blyth's Reed Warbler

butterfly sp

turtle sp


Our cabin in Jungle Camp

Jungle Camp bar, dining room & reception

One of several ponds in the camp

We went back to the abandoned resort later in the afternoon and then to a woodland but couldn’t find any of our target birds but there were plenty of other birds around.

Bay-backed Shrike

Pale-billed Flowerpecker

Plum-headed Parakeet

Blackbuck

Wild Boar




Saturday 29th

Our final day began with us birding from our cabin balcony before breakfast. 

Wild Boar by our cabins

Smyrna (White-throated) Kingfisher

Spotted Dove

Vernal Hanging Parrot


As we drove out later, a Hoopoe flew past. We entered another state: Karnataka and into Bandipur Tiger Reserve, another one with a human population. We stopped at a small wetland where we added lots of new birds including Red-naped Ibis, three species of egret and Indian Silverbill.

Bay-backed Shrike

Long-tailed Shrike

Great, Little & Medium Egrets

Red-naped Ibis

Shikra


The latest hands-free device...

In the afternoon we spent a couple of hours beside a canal near Mysore, trying to find some roosting owls but couldn’t locate them. However, it was a very birdy place with Grey Francolin, Black-headed Ibis, more Hoopoes and a Short-toed Eagle just before dusk. 

Brahminy Kite

Cattle Egret with its buddy

Grey Francolin

Hoopoe

Indian Grey Hornbill

Paddyfield Pipit

Rose-coloured Starling

Short-toed Eagle

Wire-tailed Swallow

We then had a three hour drive to our final hotel in Bengaluru. We didn’t arrive until 9.30 so went straight to dinner before having a short nap.

Sunday 30th

Our cab picked us up at 1.30 in the morning for our transfer to the airport and then a direct flight back to Heathrow on Virgin, landing at 10.50. It had been another excellent trip filled with great memories and experiences. I ended up seeing 34 new birds along with many mammals, reptiles and insects.




Bhutan Part 1

Saturday 14 th March I booked on a Birdfinders trip to Bhutan, a small kingdom nestled in the Himalayas between NE India and Tibet. Due t...