Bhutan Part 3

Thursday 19^th

An early start, leaving the hotel at 5.30 in the rain. It was already very cold and I was wearing seven layers. We headed up to the pass, pausing briefly to check for the cranes again but there was no sign; they had obviously all left early this year. It soon stopped raining which was just as well as this would have meant it was snowing where we were going.

There was already a light snow covering as we ascended and we checked all the roadside slopes for pheasanty things. First up was a female Himalayan Monal, one of our main target species. We walked on, looking for birds in the woodland as well and there were plenty to be seen despite the mountain chill. White-browed Rosefinch, White-winged Grosbeak, Red-headed Bullfinch and Hoary-throated Barwing were some of the new birds we encountered before our picnic breakfast.

Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch

Rufous-vented Tit

Hoary-throated Barwing

Red-headed Bullfinch

Breakfast in the snow

We’d only just started tucking into our porridge when a Himalayan Monal suddenly appeared and started calling which we could see from our breakfast table. The light wasn’t very good but eventually we could see some colour in the scope.

We continued walking upwards and almost immediately saw our number one target – Satyr Tragopan which crossed the track and went up a steep slope, disappearing fairly quickly. A small party of Southern Nutcrackers fed on the roadside verge and as we wandered back down, a pair of Fire-tailed Myzornis were seen fairly well but there was no sun out to turn the dull green into a bright emerald.

Darjeeling Woodpecker

Southern Nutcracker

Further down the road we sent our driver into a meadow where he put up a Solitary Snipe which we then watched feeding in a small stream. 

Solitary Snipe

A couple of flocks of Snow Pigeons flew past and a large flock of Plain Mountain-Finch actually pitched down while we stopped at Tronga Stupa. 

Plain Mountain-Finch

Trongsa Stupa

An impressive bit of dry-stone walling

After another picnic lunch, the sun came out and we were able to shed some layers. We drove up and down a couple of times going through mountain passes and made a few more stops. New birds continued to be added with the likes of Himalayan Bluetail, Bhutan Laughingthrush, Brown Parrotbill and Rufous-vented Yuhina.

Himalayan Bluetail (female)

Rufous Sibia

Another Dzong on a hill top

There were many pictures of the royal family on buildings

We arrived at our hotel just after six in the evening.

Friday 20^th

Another early start as we left the hotel at 5.30. We spent most of the day at over 3,000 metres so it was pretty cold and we were all layered up again. We drove slowly along the road looking for ‘chickens’ and one of the first birds seen was a male Himalayan Monal. It was in good light albeit obscured behind bushes but it was our best sighting so far.

As we drove into a small settlement we got out of the bus for a walk and I finally caught up with Black-rumped Magpie after missing some yesterday [this is one of the four splits of Eurasian Magpie]. There was also Beautiful Rosefinch, Plain Mountain-Finch and a small flock of Crossbills flew over. 

We needed a shelter for breakfast as it was actually snowing

We carried on driving and saw several Common Pika, a small montane rodent. The first of several flocks of Blood Pheasant were seen, the first ones were inside the forest so difficult to see well but we later encountered two other flocks out in the open.

Topping these was bird of the day – a stunning male Satyr Tragopan that sat by the roadside long enough for everyone to get good views and many photos, even if it was slightly hiding. This was high on most people’s targets and after a less than satisfactory view yesterday it was great to see one properly. 

Satyr Tragopan - bird of the trip

We also saw a pair of Himalayan Monals, the male was sat up on a rock but took flight before anyone managed to rattle off a photo.

White-collared Blackbird

Himalayan Monal - we had to wait until the last day to get the best views of one

A large flock of about 130 Snow Pigeons were feeding in a field and several Himalayan Griffons slowly cruised over. A pair of White-throated Redstarts were seen although we spent some time before we could see why they were named as such as the white throat on the male was a small dot only visible when viewing the bird head on. The first pass was crossed at 3,850 metres and we then descended just a few hundred metres.

Snow Pigeons

Black-throated Laughingthrush

Plain Mountain-Finch

Red-billed Chough

Large-billed Crow collecting nest material

The rest of the day continued in the same vein, driving along the virtually deserted road and walking sections of it looking for forest birds, as well as having our excellent breakfast and lunch in the field. It was rather cold for alfresco dining and we needed the shelter as there was a bit of light precipitation.

The afternoon highlights included two Little Forktails on about the fifth waterfall that we looked for them, Chestnut-crowned Warbler and a flock of at least 20 Black-throated Parrotbills that skulked inside a bamboo thicket before having to break cover and fly into the next one. 

Blood Pheasants

Himalayan Buzzard

Little Forktail

Rufous-vented Yuhina

We carried on birding until after 5pm as the road ahead was closed due to bridge repairs and arrived at our hotel in the rain at 6pm. We were going to be spending three nights here, a real luxury as we’d moved on every day so far.