Monday, March 16, 2020

Day 13 Spinetails and burial chambers


A revision to the itinerary meant we left the hotel at 6 and drove for 90 minutes for a field breakfast before attempting to find another endemic – the very localised Great Spinetail. We knew it’d be difficult to find at this time of the year as it wouldn’t be singing and things didn’t look good as the prime area had been trashed by heavy machinery. Still, we tried the area and further up and down the road without success and were contemplating leaving when we heard an odd call. We decided to follow it up and up popped a Maranon Yellowthroat. While we watched this bird instead, a large brown bird with a long tail appeared in the background – the Great Spinetail! It later transpired that the calls we’d heard were in fact made by this bird.

Great Spinetail habitat that had recently been wrecked

We drove on to our next stop, a large lake teeming with Andean Coot and a single Pied-billed Grebe. On the surrounding fields were Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant, Band-tailed Seedeater and Peruvian Sierra-Finch as well as a local woman who wanted payment from us for birding the site (she went empty-handed).

Andean Coot lake
Andean Coot

Our next visit was to an ancient burial site, a local tourist attraction, which dates back to pre-Inca times.





Rufous-collared Sparrow at the burial chambers
We were serenaded by a group of little boys who sing songs for money, see video:


After a quick field lunch we visited a lovely narrow canyon with steep cliffsides where Andean Swifts flew overhead and White-winged Cincloides patrolled the fast-flowing river. 



White-winged Cincloides

Black Metaltail
Our target species were all hummers and it didn’t take too long to track them all down: Black Metaltail, Grey-bellied Comet and Giant Hummingbird – the 53rd and last hummer of our trip. We also added Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail and saw bushes coated in a huge emergence of moths before heading back to our hotel.

moths

Local women in traditional costume walking the cows home

Sunday, March 15, 2020

Day 14 Lima and the coast


Our last day in Peru and it was a long one as we checked out of our hotel at 5am for the short journey to the airport. We arrived we we’d started the trip almost two weeks earlier, at a hot, busy airport in Lima. We’d arranged some last day birding on the coast so we didn’t have to spend the whole day in the airport and we were soon heading slowly through the traffic jams of Lima south onto the Pan America Highway with the Pacific Ocean alongside. We managed to see Franklin’s and Belcher’s Gull, Neotropic Cormorant, Inca Tern and Peruvian Booby from the car before we’d made our first stop.



Inca Tern

At a lookout over the ocean there were dozens of very close Inca Terns as well as better views of the afore-mentioned seabirds. We carried on to our main stop – Villa Marshes, which consists of several large lagoons just inshore of the beach. The spits and islands were covered by hundreds, if not thousands of Franklin’s Gulls and there were plenty of new waterbirds to look for.


Franklin's Gull

We unearthed the first Yellow-billed Night-Heron of the trip plus a small flock of Andean Duck, a stifftail very similar to Ruddy Duck, quite a few waders including American Oystercatcher, Killdeer plus some introduced Yellow-hooded Blackbirds, a couple of stunning Great Grebes and some distant Chilean Flamingos, while out to sea there were lots of Elegant Terns.

American Oystercatcher

Yellow-hooded Blackbird
Black Skimmer

Great Grebe

We drove back to the centre and took a boardwalk trail where we enticed out a Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant - a small rainbow-coloured flycatcher - a sun-drying Neotropic Cormorant, close-up Pied-billed Grebe and a Plumbeous Rail which crossed the boardwalk in front of us to a marshy pool. 

Neotropic Cormorant

Pied-billed Grebe

Plumbeous Rail

All too soon it was time to leave and we drove down to a bustling fishing port where we had a boat trip around a rocky island. 



The first stretch was on the open sea which was very bumpy but it soon settled down and we could enjoy our last bit of birding. There were seabirds in view constantly, either crammed onto the ledges of the island or flying past us out to sea. Most of these were Peruvian Boobies but we also saw a small number of Humboldt Penguins, a single Blackish Oystercatcher, Guanay and Red-legged Cormorants and our last endemic of the trip, a Peruvian Surf Cincloides.

Peruvian Booby


Humboldt Penguin
Belcher's Gull (aka Band-tailed Gull)

Guanay Cormorant

Red-legged Cormorant

Blackish Oystercatcher


Peruvian Surf Cincloides

A few Blue-footed Boobies were perched on the rocks, perhaps just visiting from the Galapagos where they breed, while huge South American Sea-Lions slept on the lower slopes.

Blue-footed Booby


South American Sea-Lions

As we approached the harbour the boat owner threw scraps of fish overboard and very quickly we were surrounded by squabbling Peruvian Pelicans fighting each other for the flesh, like a scene from The Walking Dead.


Peruvian Pelicans

Turnstones
Once back on dry land we walked through the throng of people in the harbour down to a restaurant for our last meal together. Then it was back north through the traffic into Lima. The traffic jams did at least give us time to locate and identify a flock of about 100 Broad-winged Hawks, apparently an unusual sight over the Capital. Once we’d dropped Jane off, we headed back to the airport for our flight on KLM to Amsterdam and onto the UK. It was a great trip which totalled 373 species, and thanks go to our guide, Jose Antonio, our drivers and all at Partnership for International Birding for making it go smoothly.

Day 12 Andes to Cajamarca


We headed straight to the lower slopes of the road we visited yesterday for a field breakfast. 

Breakfast in the field
Birding along the road we had brief views of a Red-crested Cotinga that refused to perch in the open for photos. A Black-throated Flowerpiercer was more obliging as was Golden-billed Saltator.

Black-throated Flowerpiercer

Golden-billed Saltator

We carried on climbing  up the road to just over 3,000 metres and saw both trainbearers, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch. Another stop added our first Brown-bellied Swallow, White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant and a flyover Andean Gull, the only one of the whole trip. A fetid roadside pool had a Plumbeous Rail that showed itself a couple of times before scurrying back into cover.



We walked along a little track where the bushes were bustling with birds including Rainbow Starfrontlet, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant and best of all, a pair of Black-crested Tit-Tyrant. It was then time to start heading back down although we stopped a few times for Cream-winged Cincloides, Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant and a trio of Sierra-Finches: Plumbeous, Peruvian and Mourning.

Mourning Sierra-Finch

Peruvian Sierra-Finch

All of the towns we drove through had bunting hung up over the streets for a local festival they have at the end of February. 


Peruvians re-creating the cover of Abbey Road

Motorbike taxis are the commonest transport
Hotel in Cajamarca
We drove on to Cajamarca to our last hotel, right on the edge of town complete with extensive gardens. We had time for a wander round, seeing a rather tame Great Egret on the pond, several Great Thrushes looking and behaving like Blackbirds from home, and a Spot-throated Hummingbird.


Great Egret

Great Thrush

Andamans Part 3

Sunday 24 th Another 4.45 start so we could try for the woodpigeon again. We went to a different forest this time and walked along the mai...